Driving down Route 10 into Isle of Wight County, the stress seems to instantly melt away. Fields of amber and gold, whiskered with just harvested crops, tuck in for the winter and charming farm houses dot the rolling hills. The sun is shining, the air is crisp and it is a perfect day to visit to Smithfield, Virginia, a charming town complete with gingerbread and colonial architecture, fantastic food, adorable shops and friendly folks who are glad you’re here.
On the Pagan River, an offshoot of the James, “Hamtown” offers something for everyone. We started our day at Cure Coffeehouse on North Church Street. This cute coffee shop has a bright and fresh interior complete with local artwork, fun swag and a delicious selection of pastries and sandwiches. We took our mocha to go and meandered down Main Street’s Wharf Hill passing the former homes of peanut factories, ham packing houses and the spot where hams were first exported from Smithfield by steamboat. Just on the other side of Smithfield Corporate Offices is a lovely wooden boardwalk, perfect for strolling, coffee cup in hand, or sitting on a bench overlooking a ribbon of blue. Enjoy the peaceful comings and goings as dories and whalers ferry to and fro from their private docks.
Reenergized, it was time to head back up the hill, stopping at Mansion House Art and Antiques on North Church Street, just across from Cure Coffeehouse. Wow, what a selection of amazing finds! Next we passed the first in a series of eight adorable outdoor art installations that were, you guessed it, life-size painted hogs! The tone was set for a day of artistic exploration. Painted by (mostly) local artists and reflecting the agricultural roots of the area, the hogs are sprinkled throughout downtown Smithfield, so, keep your eyes open!
At the top of Main Street, check out Art Center @ 319 which is also home to the Smithfield/Isle of Wight Visitor’s Center. Here you’ll find gallery and studio space for some of the area’s many painters, sculptors, jewelry designers and more. It is a great spot to pick up something truly unique and a self-guided walking tour map. Chat with one of the friendly volunteers at the Visitor’s Center who proudly call this area home and pick up brochures of the many things to do in the area.
Next, we were ready to hit the shops, and there are plenty! From a brand new outfit to refitting your entire house, you’ll find it in Hamtown. Cute boutiques like Relics, Pearl’s Boutique, Maggie Casey’s Celtic Treasures, and Hamtown Mercantile make for a great adventure. We loved the variety and that each shop had a truly unique feel.
Ready for some history? Downtown Smithfield has two museums, the Schoolhouse Museum, a one-room schoolhouse for African American children dating back to 1932 that was revitalized as part of the 2007 Jamestown Celebration festivities, and the Isle of Wight County Museum which has the world’s oldest ham, dating back to 1902. Overlooked for 20 years hanging from a rafter in a packing house, once found the ham developed quite a following and was even featured in Ripley’s Believe It Or Not three times!
Now, I’m not going to say that looking at the world’s oldest ham made us hungry, but in fairness, next up, it was time for lunch. So, we headed to the Wharf Hill Brewing Company. Though the bustling days of the Wharf Hill business district are long gone, in its place stands a wonderful brewery and restaurant housed in a beautifully maintained 1906 building. With original brick walls and wide plank floors, benches made from circa 1915 church pews and a bar crafted from lumber saved from a 1900 school house, Wharf Hill Brewing Company is an education in and of itself with walls covered in photos and memorabilia from the building’s early days as an Elks Hall. And, have we mentioned their beer selection? Five taps feature their own brews and five more feature guests’. Don’t miss their Fisherman’s Stew, and go ahead, get a bowl.
Ready for dessert? There is no shortage of places to satisfy your sweet tooth, including Yummaries Bakery (with a selection of beautifully iced cookies) and The Smithfield Gourmet Cafe and Bakery (Hello – generously frosted cupcakes!)
A day in lovely Smithfield is just about perfect! Whether you travel by ferry or cross the James River Bridge, you’ll know you’re in Hamtown when you can’t help but have a smile on your face.